Salinas & the Coast | Ecuador Part II
After a few days in the city, we headed west to the beach. Salinas is Guayaquil’s summer getaway, and resembles a mini-Miami with apartment tower after tower overlooking the waterfront. Vacation season was well over and while the town was empty of people, the local empanada haunts and late night snackeries were still serving a hungry tummy looking for a bite. In what seems like an ode to french fries á la McFlurry, the Ecuadorian version dips a bread roll made of yuca in a fro-yo-esque smoothie for delectable results. While not one to search for American cuisine when aboard, we enjoyed a classic diner breakfast of pancakes and waffles (including some smuggled Splenda). Diego had mentioned how popular Ecuador was among expats but as if the US Dollar wasn’t enough of a clue, I was now noticing a lot more of the red, white, and blue; as an added plus, a few Swiss crosses were popping up too, and I felt right home.
Despite not going to the Galapagos, I was given a small taste courtesy of the coastal wildlife. The sea brought ashore urchins and crabs, the tide pools brimmed with anemones and mollusks, and on a beachside run, we encountered a pack of seawolves (or lions as we know them in the States). Waking to the sound of waves, I sat for actual hours mesmerized by the airshow of what seemed like hundreds of different species of birds sailing over the ocean. Each with a distinctive flight pattern: some swooped and swan-dove into the water, hoping to come up with a mouthful of food; others took turns surfing the Pacific swell, trying to push themselves as close to the breaking barrels without getting soaked. It reminded me of Jonathan Seagull, a childhood book about a flighty spirit trying to find himself; I smiled at the irony.
As one makes their way north along the coast, you pass small town after small town, the most famous being Montañita. Globally renowned as being one of the word’s top 5 Spanish schools, I think it is better known as a party paradise for backpackers and beach bums. You get the feeling that time doesn’t exist here. I joked that the night we spent could easily turn into 10 years but after hearing a few stories, it seems the Neverneverland effect is real.
And as one makes their way even farther north, the scenery changes radically. Deserts are deserted for lush jungle and the apartment towers are traded for treehouses. We stopped in Ayampe and stayed in Puerto Rico (not the island), two locales that are quickly turning into the new retreats as Salinas hits capacity. Diego’s friend Louie took us for a tour around a property that he is developing and the forest density grew with alarming thickness and I began to wonder how much of the surrounding land has yet to be explored. The Jurassic Park ride ended on a hilltop overlooking the ocean with a perfectly placed bench beckoning us to sit for a few minutes and admire the beauty of the world. It was magical.
